Perfume experts, designers, and chic women reveal the secrets to discovering the fragrances that suit your style
Photographs by Lacey
Each season, the runways inspire us to update our look and our signature style. And this fall, designers wowed us with more lustworthy items than ever. So you've filled your closet with metallic bags and brightly colored heels; now it's time to choose the perfect scent to match. "Fragrance is the ultimate accessory because it is so personal," says Michael Kors. "It is really a way for a woman to connect with the designer in a different way from carrying a fabulous handbag." How do you know what's right for you? It's as easy as looking to the fashions you love. "Style and scent usually marry well together. When we create designer fragrances, we look to the brand's aesthetic and translate it olfactorily," says Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide at the Estée Lauder Companies, who helped create Michael Kors Very Pretty.
Whether you wear a uniform or are a fashion chameleon, you need a wardrobe of scents to finish each look. "Fragrance completes a person's style," says Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation. "With the array available, it's easy to have scents for different moods and events," adds fragrance consultant Ann Gottlieb, who worked on Calvin Klein Secret Obsession. Society fixture Helen Schifter says, "Guerlain Vetiver, which is very green, is perfect for summers in the country, when I'm in shorts and moccasins. For nights in winter, I wear Estée Lauder Private Collection. It smells romantic and inspires me when I'm dressing up for a black-tie event." Pat Saxby, merchandise manager and vice president of cosmetics at Bergdorf Goodman, also suggests looking at your lifestyle and keeping your engagements in mind: "If you are planning a romantic evening, wear a richer, sexier fragrance." But if you could never change your one and only scent, be sure it represents your style. For Marjorie Gubelmann, founder of luxury home brand Vie Luxe, fragrance is the ultimate reflection of her simply chic wardrobe. "When I find a scent I like, I stick to it," says Gubelmann, whose signature spray is Narciso Rodriguez. With fashion, it's the same way: "I carry the same type of handbags and shoes. I don't change."
Which new fragrances suit your fashion obsessions for fall? Read on for our recommendations.
If you love a SEXY TUX ...
The tailored tuxedo returned in full force at Zac Posen, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alexander Wang. "A woman who wears this tends to be someone who has confidence and isn't worried about crossing the gender line," says Loren. The same goes for the scents: "Look for fragrances driven by masculine woody and mossy notes topped with a few feminine florals." Try:
Tom Ford White Patchouli ($92), a new take on the classic scent, combining florals like white peony, rose absolute, and jasmine with a light patchouli.
Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Shiro Kuramata ($350), a limited-edition scent with lotus, lily, and precious woods.
Jil Sander Scent 79 Woman ($110), a rich, sophisticated fragrance with light notes of rose and iris and a sensuous base of caramelized wood and vetiver.
Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Soul ($80), a vibrant and captivating blend of bergamot, magnolia blossom, and fig tree.
If you love VIBRANT BRIGHTS ...
The intense shades of cherry, raspberry, and plum seen at Oscar de la Renta, Dior, and Versace relate perfectly to the juicy notes in many of fall's fragrances. For Jean Paul Gaultier, a couture dress from his Fall 2006 collection inspired the packaging of his new scent, Ma Dame. "It was electric pink mixed with orange," he explains. "When we finally had the fragrance, it was so energetic and so electric that I knew I had to have this color for the bottle." Ma Dame's perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian, adds, "Fresh, fruity notes have a certain vibrancy." Just as bright, vivid colors can elevate your mood, so can their fragrance counterparts. Try:
Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy ($65), a mix of wild berries, mandarin, and caramel that creates a flirty, luscious scent.
Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame ($64), a colorful blend of orange, rose velvet, and grenadine.
Pucci Vivara Silver Edition ($88), a chic yet playful scent featuring bergamot, orange flower, and iris.
Lilly Pulitzer Squeeze ($48), bright and whimsical, with notes of exotic lychee, pink grapefruit, and lotus blossom.
If you love PRETTY FLORAL PRINTS ...
At Vera Wang, Michael Kors, and Missoni, blooms were big, bold, and ultrafeminine. If your closet is crammed with these gorgeous prints, then a perfect match is a floral fragrance. "Look for beautiful flowers like gardenia, tuberose, and rose," says Loren. Try:
Michael Kors Very Pretty ($75), a new interpretation of the designer's first scent, with notes of green violet, orange flower, gardenia, and vetiver.
Marc Jacobs Gardenia ($67), a lighter version of the signature gardenia in his first fragrance, surrounded by magnolia, water lily, and tuberose.
Lancome Trésor Elixir ($69), an intense variation of the classic eau de parfum with notes of otto rose, heliotrope blossom, and sandalwood.
Vera Wang Look ($90), a seductive combination of jasmine, lily, and oakmoss.
Dior J'adore L'absolu Solid Perfume ($82), a softer version of the original scent, with rose, tuberose, and ylang-ylang.
Nina by Nina Ricci ($54), an enchanting mix of peony petals, moonflower, vanilla, and apple-tree wood.
Estée Lauder Sensuous ($49.50), a smooth and sensual blend of jasmine petals, magnolia, sandalwood, and amber.
If you love the HAUTE-HIPPIE LOOK ...
Rich bohemians ruled at Gucci, DKNY, and Chloé with beautiful, luxurious silks and golden accents. How does this translate into fragrance? "This is a style driven by more eclectic notes," says Loren. "Think spicy, incense, oriental." Try:
Gucci by Gucci Eau de Parfum Concentrée ($230), a richer version of the original scent, with a combination of honeyed musk, guava, and Tahitian tiare flower.
Yves Saint Laurent Opium Collector Edition ($75), an alluring blend of bergamot, vanilla, patchouli, and amber.
Donna Karan Signature ($85), a relaunch of the designer's first fragrance, with notes of exotic florals, amber, and sandalwood.
Aveda Ancient Attar Pure-fume Spirit Aroma Spray ($70), a fresh, delicate option with rose, neroli, and sandalwood oils.
If you love GLAMOROUS GOWNS ...
Valentino, Monique Lhuillier, and Ralph Lauren turned up the wow factor with gorgeous grown-up frocks. Perfumer Olivier Gillotin took a similar cue when creating Ralph Lauren Notorious. "The concept came from movies of the '50s and '60s, in which women were very provocative and very feminine," he says. According to Estée Lauder's Loren, this look can be found in scents that mix woods and spices with bold floral notes like jasmine and richer roses. Try:
Ralph Lauren Notorious ($65), a captivating, timeless fragrance with pink peppercorn, carnation, and patchouli musk.
Azzaro Couture ($150), a modern take on the classic '70s fragrance, combining Italian-iris and May-rose absolutes with Indonesian patchouli.
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Shimmering Touch ($65), a spirited and feminine scent with jasmine, May rose, and Haitian vetiver that also leaves a golden sheen on the skin.
Absolutely Irrésistible Givenchy ($68), vibrant and luscious, with red pepper, jasmine, and cedarwood.
Calvin Klein Secret Obsession ($55), an intoxicating and sexy blend of rose de Damas, sandalwood, and burnt amber.
Emporio Armani Diamonds Intense ($55), an addictive mix of Bulgarian rose, raspberry nectar, and patchouli.
Dolce & Gabbana L'Eau the One ($60), soft and enticing, with jasmine, Madonna lily, and musk.
Shopping Guidelines Arrive bare. Don't wear any scent or scented lotions. "You won't get a clear read on the fragrance," notes Loren.
Seek out an expert. "Fragrance Foundation-certified scent-sales specialists are trained to ask the right questions," says Bloom. By learning about your lifestyle, they will be able to direct you toward the options that best suit you.
Wear it out. Just as you do when you buy clothes, you need to try on perfume. "I spray one or two things and go shopping for an hour. Fragrance changes once it's on the skin," notes Saxby. "If you still aren't sure, ask for a sample and take it home."
Don't try more than three fragrances at a time. Your nose can become fatigued, which can cause you to smell scents differently or not at all.
The Best Way to Spritz
Spray on your wrists and neck. "Scents should not be overpowering or overbearing," says Roopal Patel, senior women's fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman.
Go low. "I have been told the best place to apply fragrance is behind the knees, because the scent will rise," notes Saxby. Plus, if you are sensitive to scent, it won't overwhelm you when you spray it.
Layer it on. Many perfumes have corresponding body creams and powders. Apply either one and finish by spraying the scent. "This allows the full beauty of the fragrance to develop on the skin and last for a long time," says Bloom.
Ralph Lauren Notorious and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Shimmering Touch go for glamour with floral and patchouli notes. See Where to Buy for details.
Define your own personal brand of chic with a spritz of your favorite designer scent. From left: Calvin Klein Secret Obsession, Michael Kors Very Pretty, Gucci by Gucci Eau de Parfum Concentrée, Tom Ford White Patchouli, and Absolutely Irrésistible Givenchy. See Where to Buy for details.
"Always be natural: That's what my mother told me when I was growing up.".
How would you describe your daily beauty routine?
Low maintenance. I could use more help now that I'm a mother [son, Alexander, is 1; baby No. 2 is on the way]. But I don't get around to doing things like tweezing anymore. When I show up at photo shoots, the makeup artist is horrified.
You're the new face of Thierry Mugler Angel. What do you like about the fragrance?
It's a powerful scent that's great for evening. I put it on when I'm in a bold, strong mood.
What's your earliest memory of fragrance?
When I was a kid, I would try to make my own perfume. I took roses from bushes, soaked the petals, and imagined I was a perfume connoisseur.
What has been your biggest beauty disaster?
I used to do terrible things to my hair when I was younger. We're talking home perms, dyeing it pink, and giving myself an asymmetrical haircut!
Is there one product you can't live without?
Sunscreen. I emigrated to Australia with my family when I was 14, and coming from England where we didn't see much sun, I wanted to be very careful. I don't muck around with SPF 15 or 25--I use 50.
Who gave you your best beauty tip ever?
I remember my mother telling me never to color my hair because once you start, you won't stop. But I didn't exactly adhere to it.
MAKEUP OBSESSION
"You get major length using this. I wear it at night."
THIERRY MUGLER FLASH ON LASHES MASCARA $28; saks.com.
MY TOP MUST-HAVES
THIERRY MUGLER ANGEL EAU DE PARFUM
"The longer this scent stays on, the better it gets."
$177/2.6 oz.; saks.com.
BENEFIT ERASE PASTE
"It's a concealer with good coverage that doesn't look too thick when you apply it."
$26; benefitcosmetics.com.
ENVIRON IONZYME C-QUENCE 1 MOISTURIZER
"This is great because it's a moisturizer and serum in one."
$110; dermogenesis.com for stores.
COPPERTONE WATER BABIES SUNSCREEN
"If it's sensitive enough for a baby, it's good enough for me."
$18/2; at amazon.com.
STILA CHERRY CRUSH LIP & CHEEK STAIN
"Gives a nice berry tint to lips and cheeks."
$24; sephora.com.
LUCAS' PAPAW OINTMENT
"I use this on dry patches and on my lips."
$18; supplementspot.com.
Naomi over the years
From fresh-faced ingénue to 1940s screen siren, this Aussie beauty has tried it all--and lived to laugh about it. Here, she tells us the backstory behind her more memorable red-carpet moments
2000
"I didn't have a hair and makeup team back then, so I did this myself. I love shorter hair."
2003
"Very romantic and ethereal. I really like the hair, the makeup--this whole look."
2004
"This is a fun one. We did heavier eye makeup and big, bad-girl hair."
2007
"I was in my second trimester. We went for an Old Hollywood feel. It was very fresh."
[BOX]
"I'm someone who likes to change her hair. I hate it being the same all the time."
How to zero in on the perfect scent for every person on your gift list, from the fragrance-phobe to the fanatic.
CHIC VINTAGE DETAIL
IMPRESS THE TRENDSTER
Searching for the next big thing? Check out niche line Tokyo Milk's under-the-radar blends, which feature unconventional combinations like clove and lavender. Edgy Victorian prints amp up the cool factor of every bottle.
TOKYO MILK
Parfumarie in 01 and 07, $28/1 oz. each; beautyhabit.com.
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE
Hit the fragrance floor first thing in the morning "when your sense of smell is freshest," says perfume critic Chandler Burr. "This will make it easier to concentrate."
Think outside the bottle
Call it the curse of the signature scent: Friends and family catch a whiff of a new favorite and a year of gift-giving later, that person has more bottles than she knows what to do with. Don't add to the stockpile. Look to creams, mists and candles for fresh fragrance alternatives.
ANGEL BY THIERRY MUGLER BODY CREAM
With its unique delivery system, the honey, chocolate and patchouli notes in this velvety whip last all day.
$80/6.9 oz.; at Nordstrom.
VIKTOR & ROLF FLOWERBOMB HAIR MIST
Alcohol-free and perfect for giving party tresses a hint of scent.
$40/1 oz.; at Nordstrom.
ACQUA DI PARMA IRIS NOBILE CANDLE
Emits a floral essence that's sweet-smelling but not at all cloying.
$57; at Neiman Marcus.
GENIUS IDEA!
NOT SURE OF HER TASTE? GIVE THE GIFT OF CHOICE
Buying fragrance can seem like a game of roulette with only one safe bet--the gift receipt. The Sephora Scent Sampler offers a new strategy. The kit includes 10 mini vials of the beauty emporium's best-selling sweet, spicy and citrusy blends, a refillable atomizer, and a voucher for a full-size bottle of the lucky winner.
SEPHORA
Scent Sampler, $50; at Sephora.
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE
Don't judge a scent at first sniff. It takes about 10 minutes for the fragrance's "heart," which lasts the longest, to develop fully, says Malle.
Study her style
The girlie ruffles or plunging necklines in your best friend's closet can reveal quite a bit about her sense of scent. Look for fragrances by fashion designers whose clothes she admires--even if the labels aren't always within her reach. "If her favorite styles are soft and feminine, her scent is likely to reflect that," says perfumer Frédéric Malle.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER MADAME
Bracing acid orange, grenadine and musk for an unapologetically sexy blend.
$87/3.3 oz.; at Macy's.
VERA WANG LOOK
Refined romanticism played out in powdery jasmine layered with lychee.
$90/3.4 oz.; at Bloomingdale's.
JEANNE LANVIN
The fresh femininity of Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz's dresses captured in a delicate peony and freesia juice.
$90/3.4 oz.; at Saks Fifth Avenue.
FOR THE PERSON WHO HAS EVERYTHING
Allow her to create something unique--a bespoke fragrance. An appointment with Sarah Horowitz Perfumes ($350 to $1,000; 888-799-2060) includes an interview about favorite foods, fabrics and vacation destinations followed by a sampling of different combinations. The result, a take-home made-to-measure blend, promises to be a perfect fit.
If looks are everything (and money is no object)
These limited-edition offerings, fit for a gallery or a vanity, will make serious collectors swoon. Modern or traditional, design takes center stage here--so choose your bottles based on style, not top note.
ISSEY MIYAKE L'EAU D'ISSEY SHIRO KURAMATA
Its minimalist design pays homage to the aesthetic of the late Japanese sculptor Kuramata.
$350/.67 oz.; at Saks Fifth Avenue.
BY KILIAN SOPHIE MATISSE EDITION
Fifty bottles were hand-painted by the artist, each with slight variations.
$1,500/1.7 oz.; at Bergdorf Goodman.
LOVE, RALPH LAUREN AMETHYST LUXURY EDITION
Hand-cut amethyst and 24kt gold worthy of a treasure chest.
$2,200/.5 oz.; at Neiman Marcus.
NINA RICCI L'AIR DU TEMPS 60TH-ANNIVERSARY EDITION
Exquisite swirls of jet-black Lalique crystal.
$840/3.7 oz.; neimanmarcus.com.
FOR THE PERSON IN A FRAGRANCE RUT
To her it smells like a trusted standby; to you it smells like time for a change. A scent that's reminiscent of her old-school favorite could ease her into a new era. "You want to find the cousin of the old fragrance," says Malle. The key is to stay within the same family. A fan of the classic Shalimar, for example, might do well with Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums Musc Ravageur ($135; barneys.com), because "both are Oriental scents that envelop you in that warm-fur-coat kind of feeling," explains the perfumer. Ask the department store fragrance consultants for recommendations.
DON'T FORGET THE MEN IN YOUR LIFE ...
Men are mysteries even the Mentalist can't solve, but buying them cologne doesn't have to be. We decode the message in the bottle.
BURBERRY THE BEAT FOR MEN
Vetiver and violet make for a tailored but hip combination.
$65/1.7 oz.; at Bloomingdale's.
UNSCRIPTED BY PATRICK DEMPSEY FOR AVON
Rugged leather and musk for the ultimate alpha guy.
$32/2.5 oz.; avon.com.
GUCCI BY GUCCI POUR HOMME
For the gentleman, a sophisticated cocktail of bergamot and tobacco.
$70/3 oz.; at Nordstrom.
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE
When sampling scents, never spritz your skin. (It's easy to forget what you sprayed where.) Instead, use smelling strips and keep a pen handy to label them.
To attract a woman by wearing scent, a man must first attract himself
THE very word "perfume" has feminine overtones to many male ears. Men can be sold "deodorant" and possibly "aftershave", but the idea of all those dinky little bottles with their fussy paraphernalia is too much for the sensitive male ego. Yet no industry can afford to neglect half its potential market, and perfume-makers are ever keen to crack the shell of male reticence. Now they may know how to do so.
Craig Roberts of the University of Liverpool and his colleagues--working with a team from Unilever's research laboratory at nearby Port Sunlight--have been investigating the problem. They already knew that appropriate scents can improve the mood of those who wear them. What they discovered, though, as they will describe in a forthcoming edition of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, is that when a man changes his natural body odour it can alter his self-confidence to such an extent that it also changes how attractive women find him.
Half of Dr Roberts's volunteers were given an aerosol spray containing a commercial formulation of fragrance and antimicrobial agents. The other half were given a spray identical in appearance but lacking active ingredients. The study was arranged so that the researchers did not know who had received the scent and who the dummy. Each participant obviously knew what he was spraying on himself, since he could smell it. But since no one was told the true purpose of the experiment, those who got the dummy did not realise they were being matched against people with a properly smelly aerosol.
Over the course of several days, Dr Roberts's team conducted a battery of psychological tests on both groups of volunteers. They found that those who had been given the commercial fragrance showed an increase in self-confidence. Not that surprising, perhaps. What was surprising was that their self-confidence improved to such an extent that women who could watch them but not smell them noticed. The women in question were shown short, silent videos of the volunteers. They deemed the men wearing the deodorant more attractive. They were, however, unable to distinguish between the groups when shown only still photographs of the men, suggesting it was the men's movement and bearing, rather than their physical appearance, that was making the difference.
For Unilever and other manufacturers of men's scent, this is an important discovery. The firm's marketing of its main product in this area, a deodorant called Lynx, plays up the so-called "Lynx Effect"--which is supposed to make men irresistibly attractive to women. Dr Roberts's experiment, however, suggests that the advertised "Born chicka wah wah" of the product may have nothing to do with a woman's appreciation of the smell, and everything to do with its psychological effect on the man wearing it.
Nor is this the only example of science illuminating the true role of perfumes. How they work to make people attractive is, as this example shows, not as obvious as it might seem. Born chicka wah, ker-ching chicka ching
There are three broad theories of perfume use. One is that people employ it to mask body odours that they perceive as bad. The second is that some perfumes contain chemicals that mimic human pheromones--elusive, mysterious (and possibly mythical) substances believed by some to play a role in mating. The third is that people use it to heighten or fortify natural scent, and thus advertise sexual attractiveness or availability.
All three theories could be true. In particular, the role of perfume as an olfactory disguise is obvious. Even here, however, there are some subtle twists. Bad smells are not just a matter of poor hygiene. Illness and old age both bring characteristic odours of their own, and neither state makes people more attractive. Perfumes may spoof these messages. Hence the marketing of a new scent called Ageless Fantasy, by Harvey Prince, which claims its product disguises the "odour of ageing", suggested to be caused by the breakdown of a particular fatty acid in the skin.
As to pheromones, whether humans have these is questionable. A pheromone is a chemical that elicits a specific behavioural response at a distance. Some insects, for example, can release sex pheromones that will attract a mate from many kilometres away. The most likely human candidate is a substance called androstadienone. This is a derivative of testosterone that is found in men's sweat and is known, from brain-scanning studies, to promote activity in parts of women's brains. That this results in changes in behaviour has not, however, been clearly demonstrated.
Terri Molnar, a spokeswoman for the Sense of Smell Institute, a research organisation in New York tied to the fragrance industry, says of human pheromones, "I think we believe they exist but they do not function as an attractant. They will elevate one's mood but not attract a mate." The fallen sons of Eve?
The most interesting area, though, is the interaction between perfumes and natural scents that carry messages but do not have the specific properties of pheromones. Odours co-ordinate a wide range of human behaviour. Mothers can recognise their children by smell. Children can recognise each other. Relatives can be distinguished from non-relatives, even to the extent of understanding who is genetically different enough from the smeller to be a good choice of mate. The sexes themselves smell different, too, and women can glean information about a man's social status from his smell alone.
As long ago as the 1950s, a perfumer called Paul Jellinek noted that several ingredients of incense resembled scents of the human body. It was not until 2001, however, that Manfred Milinski and Claus Wedekind of the University of Bern wondered whether there was a correlation between the perfume a woman preferred and her own natural scent. They found that there is.
The correlation is with the genes of what is known as the major histocompatibility complex (MHC). This region of the genome encodes part of the immune system. It turns out that one of the most important aspects of mate choice in mammals, humans included, is to make sure that your mate's MHC is different from your own. Mixing up MHCs makes the immune system more effective. The MHC is also thought to act as a proxy for general outbreeding, with all the hybrid vigour that can bring. Fortunately, then, evolution has equipped mammals with the ability to detect by smell chemicals whose concentrations vary with differences in the MHC of the producer.
That means people are able to sniff out suitable MHC genomes in prospective partners. A woman, for instance, will prefer the smell of T-shirts that have been worn by men whose MHC genes are appropriately different from their own. Dr Milinski and Dr Wedekind also found an association between a woman's MHC genes and some of her preferences for perfume. Perception of musk, rose and cardamom is correlated with the MHC. Perception of castoreum and cedar is not.
Women, it seems, choose not the kind of smell they would like on a partner, or even one that might mask a nasty odour of their own, but rather something that matches their MHC. In other words, they are advertising their own scent.
There are many useful inferences that might be drawn from this research. One would be that a woman's choice of perfume will resist the vagaries of fashion. This may explain why most innovation in the industry involves changes in packaging and marketing, producing all that fussy paraphernalia, rather than changing what is in the bottle.
Another implication, says Dr Roberts, is that it is probably best that people choose perfumes for themselves rather than for someone else--unless they happen to know what the recipient likes. If you have made a good genetic choice of partner (ie, someone with a significantly different MHC), then the theory suggests that you should not be able to choose something that smells nice to them based on your own preferences. You might, though, have better luck choosing for a close relation, because she would probably have an MHC similar to your own.
The research also raises the question of what so-called unisex perfumes are for. In any genetically successful love match, one of the partners ought to hate a unisex perfume. Perhaps, in a world of olfactory fakery, this is one tip for the wise. If your partner has a strange knack of being able to pick out all the right perfumes, this may not be a good sign at all. And that, of course, means that the best you can hope for this Christmas is that he has bought you a perfume that you absolutely hate.
